What does “indent”  mean?

Lamps that are indent are not made in New Zealand so are not in stock unless stated on the website. Indent means that the product is manufactured overseas and ordered from the supplier for Eunice Taylor Ltd’s customers.

Shipping methods for indent lighting orders

Different suppliers have varying production leadtimes, from 45 days to 60 days or more. Where possible, orders will be despatched from overseas in a consolidated shipment to reduce freight costs. If required sooner and the size and weight of the lamp allow, airfreight is an option. Freight charges are always passed on at cost.

Eunice Taylor Ltd’s guide to ordering lampshades

When ordering your shades, we know how tricky it is so please feel free to contact us for help but before you do, here’s a check list for you:

Styrene is a plastic sheet that is glued and bonded to the material used for the lampshade. It keeps the shape of the shade and joins the top and bottom rings together. A full frame does not need a laminated styrene backing because it will keep its shape. Styrene can be either white, opaque or clear depending on what effect you would like to achieve – white being more solid, opaque being a little softer and clear see through.

Remember the more basic the shape of the body of the lamp, the more varied styles of shade itcan take. Try to repeat the shapes in the lamp body in the shade shape. Make sure the diameter of the bottom of the shade is not greater that the height of the lamp body.

The most popular shapes are…..
Round i.e. a Drum or Tapered Drum (Empire)
Oval or Tapered Oval
Square or Tapered Square or
Oblong i.e. Rectangle or Tapered Oblong

There are many styles of stretch lampshade dating back in history but the most well-known are “waisted” or “semi-waisted” shades eg Regency, Rimini with or without Panel, Tulip, Victoriana, Pagoda, Dynasty and Dr Seuss.  Non-waisted stretch shades are the Tiffany (with or without Crown) and Viceroy.  Stretch lampshades do not need styrene to hold their shape but do have panels of fabric that are glued onto the frame instead and then trimmed to tidy.  You’ll be able to find images on our website.

Other popular styles are Pleated shades – either Box or Knife.  Ribbon shades wrap ribbon around the frame and gathered shades use a gathered fabric.

Generally we measure lampshades in Imperial but you can provide the metric equivalent. Remember – ALWAYS MEASURE THE TOP FIRST, then the Bottom, then the Height.

Here’s a quick table for measuring:

Drum shades – measure top diameter, bottom diameter, and then the height – bottom to top (height)
Empire shades – measure top diameter, bottom diameter and slope height
Oval shade – measure diameter of top width, top depth and height
Tapered oval – measure diameter of top width and depth, bottom width and depth and slope height
Square – measure top width, top depth and height
Tapered Square – measure top width and depth, bottom width and depth, and slope height
Oblong – measure diameter of top width, top depth, and height
Tapered Oblong – measure top width and depth, bottom width and depth and height
Waisted shades – start with the base diameter in imperial and we’ll help you work out the rest!

As most of our frames attach to the lampholder you need to know what bulb is going to fit so we can provide the right sized ring.  The larger ring is an E27 or ES Edison Screw Bulb and the
smaller ring is for the BC B22 Bayonet Bulb.  When in doubt, order the larger E27 fitting and ask for a shade reducer which is a little plastic clip that reduces the size of the ring.

The shade can be manufactured with a base fitting or a well fitting.  A base fitting has the supporting struts at the base and the well fitting extends down from the top.  Be aware, parchments and some fabrics when illuminated can throw a shadow so, if in doubt, order a base fitting.  Pendants always have a top fitting otherwise they would hang upside down!

Scandinavian lampshades sit on a round “cradle” at the top of the shade and American Harp Fittings work with a harp and finial with washers.  There are many different sizes of washer to fit the finial so you will need to measure these as well.  Lampshades that do not attach to the lampholder give the impression of “floating”.

Lampshades are usually recessed 40mm up from the base. The amount of recess will determine where the shade sits on the base.  Most lampshades will sit in exactly the right position with the standard recess of 40mm but some need to sit a little higher or a little lower to look balanced.  To measure the recess required, hold your lampshade in the correct position and measure how much higher or lower the fitting needs to sit – this measurement will then either need to be added to or subtracted from 40mm.  Remember, the higher the shade goes, the smaller its recess and vice versa.

Choose from white, black, gold or silver.  Other colours are possible but there will be an additional charge.  If you are lining your shade the frame should match this colour where possible.

That is entirely up to you depending on your client’s preference and décor.  Some people like a simple, sophisticated handrolled shade, others like ornate, colourful or patterned shades with trims and embellishments. You can match the lampshade colour to the colour in your room and tones in the lamp body.  Don’t be afraid to use black or colour as an accent. Consider the style of the lamp when selecting fabric – a busy lamp generally calls for a plainer shade.  For drama, think outside the box!

Laminated shades (eg Drum and Empire) are easy to work with but do think about what direction you would like the fabric or wallpaper to run – vertical or horizontal? The same is true for stripes – which direction do you want them to run? And be aware that some patterns can look odd when tapering around to a back seam as they do with Empire shades.  Oblong and square shades have corners to work with and some wallpapers do not like being folded.  Stretch shades must have fabrics that stretch and we recommend silk, cut on the cross.

Our fabrics are coded in pricepoints where PP1 is the cheapest, eg Chintz, some parchments and linens), PP2 are more expensive – silks, linens, wallpapers, raffia, some parchments and new season’s fabrics whilst PP3 are Designer fabrics from elite fabric houses. The CF pricepoint applies to the price of the lampshade when the fabric is supplied by the customer. We recommend that you check the suitability of the fabric with us before purchasing as well as how much fabric to supply.

Most of our silks are hand loomed which means they are loomed by hand making them look and feel “slubby”.   Machine loomed silks are machine loomed making them a lot finer in texture.

We recommend lining our stretch shades and use a very fine lingerie fabric which comes in a variety of colours to do this.  Laminated shades don’t need to be lined but they do look amazing with a contrast fabric or paper particularly if you can see inside.  There is extra work to line your shade so there is an additional charge.

If you have chosen a prelaminated fabric, raffia, parchment, or timber veneer we must trim the shade top and bottom to cover the “raw” edge.  Choose either a matching fabric (self-trim) or a contrast fabric which is applied at no extra cost.  Shades made from any other fabric (chintz, silk, linen, etc) are able to be handrolled and don’t need to be trimmed unless this is a detail you would like.  Trim in the same or a contrasting fabric either top and bottom or bottom only.

A double self-trim means two layers of trim where one is different and may include piping or cord.  A double self-trim can be applied top and bottom or just the bottom and is charged at an additional cost.

Fancy cords and leather thonging are also options and will attract an additional charge.  Thonging is where we loop leather over and through the edge of the shade, giving an even greater sense of handmade.